London area guide: Holborn

Do you remember the attempts to rename Holborn and the surrounding area ‘Midtown’, as though London were a cheap New York knock-off rather than its own city? As if several New York neighbourhoods weren’t knock-offs of London. Borderline criminal behaviour, to try and take such a locale rich in history, culture and entertainment, and strip it of its identity. and

Luckily, it never caught on and Holborn remains Holborn. It’s an incredibly convenient area, dense with things to see and places to go. Off to the West End? Go through Holborn. The British Museum? Holborn. Visiting King’s College or LSE? You’ll never guess where you need to go. In such a dense neighbourhood, it’s easy to miss some of the best that Holborn has to offer, and this area guide will be a good starting point for your explorations.

Museums

While getting crushed by tourist groups in the British Museum might not be anyone’s idea of a relaxing afternoon, Holborn has plenty of more off-beat alternatives that will scratch that museum itch.

If you are or have been, an even moderately edgy teenager living in London, you’ll likely have heard of the Hunterian Museum. Known for its collection of body parts and animals in jars, it’s one of the city’s stranger museums—and most fascinating. The collection was built in the 18th century and is home to such delights as a bladder stone in an engraved pewter box. The museum reopened in 2023 after a massive redevelopment process and offers regular tours, talks and temporary exhibitions to pique the interest of anyone into the medically macabre.

If pickled hedgehogs aren’t your style, then Sir John Soane’s Museum is an alternative option. This crowded collection is an absolute treasure trove. Made up of three townhouses knocked together, and displaying objects from the titular architect Soane’s personal collection, ranging from an ancient Egyptian sarcophagus to architectural models, every corner of this eclectic museum reveals a world in itself. It’s the kind of place that deserves multiple visits—there’s no way to take it in all in at once.

For anyone wanting to brush up on their literary history, Holborn is also home to the Charles Dickens Museum. Visitors can walk the hallways of the author’s one-time home, each room showcasing his works and life. There’s plenty here for fans and newcomers alike; the museum caters to a wide audience, running activities for children and families as well as live theatrical performances and alternative evening tours—including one looking at the sleazier side of Victorian London.

Entertainment

While Covent Garden and Soho are more broadly recognised as the West End proper, Holborn has its fair share of entertainment venues. Moving from stage to screen, tucked away on a side street is the Garden Cinema. This fully independent cinema is a welcome change from the blockbuster chains in nearby Leicester Square. You’ll still be able to catch some of the latest releases, but the real draw here is the cinema’s themed seasons and special events. With Art Deco-tinged charm and intimate screening rooms, this is an ideal spot to enjoy a film without the overwhelming hustle of much larger venues.

Red Lion Square

Between Theobalds Road and High Holborn is Red Lion Square, a charmingly dramatic name for the diminutive garden it describes. There are some great food spots around here, including Malaysian restaurant Dapur, whose daily changing menu features warming curries, stir-fried veggies and hearty stews; Korean outpost Zipbab, serving bibimbap, bunsik, noodles and soup; and 1+1 Rougamo, whose titular offerings of crispy, flaky buns filled with beef, duck or vegetables are a surefire hit for a quick meal.

Most of the cafes and restaurants around here are pretty small and often busy, so be prepared to wait around a bit or take your food to go. The square itself has benches aplenty if you want to eat al fresco.

A few minutes away is another animal-themed road: Lamb’s Conduit Street. Leaning into the Bloomsbury area, the vibe here is a little more refined. There’s Noble Rot Wine Bar and Restaurant, alongside sleek Mediterranean joint Honey & Co. and charming, airy coffee bar and cafe Tuttis. Perhaps more of a street-to-window shop, upmarket clothing stores TOAST, Oliver Spencer and Folk Clothing all have brick-and-mortars here; and if the prices shock you, cosy Victorian pub The Lamb is just down the road for you to regain your composure.

The Architecture

As one of the most mish-mashed, higgledy-piggledy areas of the city, a top tip in Holborn is to look up. Rather than staring at your phone while you walk—never a good idea, both for the risk of it being snatched and facing the ire of other walkers with places to be—take the time to appreciate the incredible architecture on display.

From the unexpectedly striking painted ceilings of St Peter’s Italian Church to the imposing grandeur of the Royal Courts of Justice (tours available) and Lincoln’s Inn, or Twinings’s flagship on the Strand, the oldest tea shop in London, there’s a lot to appreciate architecturally around here.

Many of the courts' gardens are also open to the public, where you can watch important-looking people bustling around with folders while you lounge on one of the well-kept lawns or enjoy a drink from one of the many cafes dotted around. Hidden behind high brick walls and down alleyways, these havens really feel like walking into another world.

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