London area guide: Clerkenwell

Clerkenwell sits in an odd spot, in the triangle between Liverpool Street, Holborn and King’s Cross. Although it doesn’t have a Tube station to its name (you’ll have to opt for Farringdon or Angel), this foodie paradise and cultural hub is absolutely worth visiting. From morning coffee to afternoon shopping, here’s a guide to this EC1 locale.

Coffee

Despite what you might think when you exit Farringdon station and clock the three (three!) Pret A Mangers within spitting distance of one another, Clerkenwell has a lot to offer when it comes to coffee shops. There's Briki, a Greek cafe in Exmouth Market. The coffee, from Athens’s Area 51 roasters, is smooth without any bitterness you might get from chain coffee. Aside from their caffeinated goods, Briki also offers a selection of sandwiches and filo pies, the smells of which will have your stomach rumbling at any time of the day.

Just opposite Briki is the Exmouth Cultural Kiosk, selling a limited range of new and second-hand books – the latter of which start at just £2. If you want to combine the two activities of refreshments and reading, Clerkenwell Books is a few minutes down the road. Floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, large windows and plenty of seating options within the cosy shop make for a perfect coffee break – and the fact that you’re supporting an independent bookshop just adds to the appeal.

Museums & galleries

Not feeling cultured enough after your reading break? The Islington Museum has objects from the 1700s to the present day on show, telling the stories of the people who have lived in the area for centuries – some of the collection even dates back to prehistory if you want to imagine what the busy streets were like before streets had even been invented. Temporary exhibitions make the museum a place to return to time and again.

The Museum of the Order of St John provides a fascinating insight into a religious military order established in Clerkenwell in the 1140s. Along with the historical material on display, the former priory that houses the museum is worth seeing in itself – and if you have time, take a moment to relax in the peaceful cloister garden before heading on your way.

From the sublime to the ridiculous, Novelty Automation, designed by Tim Hunkin, is a side street shop housing ridiculous and unexpected arcade games designed to make you laugh, jump and maybe even think. See if you have what it takes to load a nuclear reactor, try and launder money without getting caught, or have a go at the expressive photo booth with a friend. Charming and sometimes unnerving, these constructions are uniquely good fun.

Dining

It can be difficult to get lunch in Clerkenwell, not for a lack of options but for the decision paralysis that hits when you realise just how many choices there are. Whatever you’re in the mood for, you can probably find it within a 10-minute radius.

If street food is what you’re after, then Exmouth Market should be your first port of call. Standout spots include the smoky Turkish grill Gürbüz and Ghanaian outpost Spinach & Agushi, both of which have loyal local followings. The street is lined with restaurants too, if you want a sit-down meal.

Moro dominates the street, with not one but three different iterations in place. The flagship, open since 1997, focusing on Spanish and North African cuisine, has a changing menu influenced by global flavours, while next door’s Morito offers tapas-style plates and a less formal vibe. And covering the street food sector, the restaurant has a hugely popular stall down the road selling mezze boxes, chicken wraps and more. If you want to get something here, try to avoid the office lunch break rush – queues often reach far down the market in peak hours.

Feel like doing the cooking yourself? Migrateful, which runs pop-up cooking classes all over the city, has its permanent cooking school nearby. The charity coaches migrants and refugees to run their own classes, focused on their native cuisine and sharing stories about their home countries.

Many of those who have gone through the programme have gone on to establish successful culinary careers – including Sanobar, whose Uzbek kitchen Samarkand Palav, now part of the Kerb incubator programme, makes regular appearances at the Cowcross Yards food market nearby. These classes are a great way to spend a few hours; you’ll certainly learn something new, meet interesting people and enjoy a great meal.

Shopping

Aside from its culinary delights, Clerkenwell is a good place to shop – or at the very least window shop. The area is packed with design businesses, highlighted yearly during Clerkenwell Design Week, many of which have window displays showcasing the best and brightest in British architecture and interiors.

Tile shop Solus, lighting company Fritz Fryer and seating manufacturer Kusch+Co are all local residents. A wander through the street is like a trip to IKEA but without the cloying panic of being trapped in a giant warehouse and the soundtrack of family arguments. You might just find an idea for your next home renovation project.

Books have already made an appearance on this list, but if you want a different sort of reading material then head down Clerkenwell Road to Magma. With a wide range of independent magazines, their own books and various ephemera from jewellery to gift cards, the limited square footage of this shop tricks you into thinking that you won’t spend long looking around. That’s far from the truth. The unusual publications here are a welcome reminder that non-mainstream creative outlets are alive and well, and it’s easy to lose track of time as you flip through a couple of magazines.

Pubs & bars

Last but not least, Clerkenwell pubs. If the Museum of the Order of St John took your fancy, visit The Holy Tavern. Built on the land that once housed Clerkenwell Priory – home to the medieval order of the Knights Hospitallers. At either end of Exmouth Market, there’s Coin Laundry – equally great for a bite to eat and comedy as it is a pint, and the Exmouth Arms whose subway green tiles you can’t miss. The Sutton Arms is a good old-fashioned boozer on the outside, but on the inside, you'll find this independent pub offering a host of beers from breweries across the UK and beyond. Head to Tabac Café in the market for all things wine and aperitivo, and pop by the Clerkenwell Tavern for salt beef sandwiches and Reubens. Lastly, check out the pub on Clerkenwell Green aptly named The Green.

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