Best restaurants in West London: The cosy restaurants edition

The “cosy restaurants” series focuses on establishments that fit into three simple categories: cosy, independently owned, and serves delicious, seasonal food. Sprawling West London may not have the same concentration of restaurants as, say, the East End but it doesn’t doesn’t disappoint in its offering.

From the cosy restaurant expert, here are some of the best restaurants in West London.

The Waterman’s Arms

Way out west with a view of Barnes Bridge crossing the Thames, The Waterman’s Arms is a reason to head to the southwest corner of London if you’re not already an SW resident. Located on a corner of a sleepy roundabout, the Thameside views compete with the picturesque cosiness of the interiors, with warm wood tones, little touches of exposed brick, soft candlelight, and a few choice framed prints.

The small, seasonal menu is simple and delicious. Oysters for a snack, wild bream and kohlrabi to start, For a main, Hereford steak with smoked garlic butter, and chicory, quince, and ricotta salad for some greenery. And for afters, nothing beats sharing meringue with apricot and lemon verbena and pairing a digestif with aged gouda and fennel honey. From the Sunday Lunch menu, I split the spitroast chicken.

I like The Waterman’s Arms precisely because it feels like I’m not in London. It’s more mellow, a place for locals, and has sunset views to boast about. It’s way out of my way but I’ll happily trek to Barnes for this restaurant.

Barnes, SW13 | watermansarms.co.uk

Sufi

Arguably one of the best restaurants in West London and my favourite place to eat in Shepherd’s Bush, Sufi is a triumvirate restaurant – big on cosy, candlelit ambience, hospitality, and home-style Persian cuisine. A few Iranian art pieces decorate a space that reaches back from a large half-moon window. When I sit down I feel like I want to relax for a couple of hours, and when dining properly, I do just that.

Unpretentious, traditionally presented, and downright amazing dishes, spiced aromatic, keep the dining experience lasting hours. My mouth waters just thinking about the saffron crispy rice with chicken, rice crust with chickpeas (never underestimate tahdig – crispy rice dishes), lamb koobideh, chicken barberry, herby sabzi, and all stews and sauces.

If there’s anything better than a small, intimate restaurant – a little hole in the wall – it’s one that serves generous portions of aromatic, moreish dishes.

Shepherd’s Bush, W12 | sufirestaurant.com

Paulette

In an era of beige Scandi minimalism, Paulette is a breath of fresh air, the Maida Vale restaurant, deli, and wine cellar leans into French grandma maximalism. Floral wallpaper, polka dot wallpaper, every lampshade ever owned by sauve early 20th-century ladies with names like Zelda and Anaïs. It somehow all works, being neither too busy for the eye nor too sparse.

The food at Paulette is unfussy, homemade comfort food through and through. To denote that it’s seasonal and locally produced is, at this point, unnecessary – it comes with the territory of the best cosy restaurants. The halibut meunière style with roasted carrots or the filet of beef with peppercorn sauce and fries are simple dishes beautifully cooked and you will see clean plates when you’ve finished eating. The baked Mont d’Or cheese served with croutons and chutney is a must.

Candlelight, sharing dishes and bottles of wine – start with an aperitif, end with a digestif, and you’ll be just fine.

Maida Vale, W9 | paulettelondon.com

Canteen

A recent addition to Portobello Road, Canteen’s kitchen is headed by former River Café chefs Jessica Filbey and Harry Hills. Now, I’m not a fan of queuing, I refuse to queue for more than twenty minutes for a meal. Naturally, the queues at the walk-in-only Canteen elicited an eye-roll from me. I do love it when I’m proven wrong. This is unpretentious and downright delicious Italian eating.

A regularly changing menu travels from Italian hills and valleys to the coast. There’s nothing ‘canteen’ like here. Pasta made daily in-house with a veal ragù that shouldn’t be possible outside of northern Italy. Spatchcocked chicken with lemon and oregano. Beautifully cooked scallops. Oh, and pizza just to be thorough.

It’s a little more on the open side but manages to still feel cosy with bench seating in tucked away corners, marble table tops topped with a candle, and wood accents throughout. I’m a real fan of the way Canteen has paired everything back to basics, from the drinks to the food, and does simple perfectly.

Notting Hill, W10 | Instagram

Lita

Not one for a fine dining atmosphere or dress code, Lita is a special occasion restaurant for me, a treat twice over, offering a sophisticated menu but with a relaxed, cosy atmosphere and unfussy presentation. Despite the open bistro layout, the timber-framed ceiling, French doors, wooden herringbone floor, and unique art pieces all create a feeling of cosiness and understated elegance.

From the menu, I’ve treated myself to quite a bit: hand-dived Orkney scallops, Dorset surf clams, slow-cooked cull yaw with celeriac, and chopped Hereford beef with Amalfi lemon and shoestring fries. Speaking of lemons, the Amalfi lemon meringue pie stole my heart which is saying something considering the Sicilian pistachio and olive oil cake with crème fraîche was an equally delightful suitor.

Lita is the perfect example that stellar ingredients are only half the picture – you need a great chef to complete it and Chef Luke Ahearne does just that.

Marylebone, W1 | litamarylebone.com

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