The best pho in London
Phoh. Phuh. Phaa. Pronounce it however you want (it’s definitely not phaa), the most important thing about phở is the broth. The second most important thing is the ingredients—rare beef, chicken, meatballs, tripe, and combi! Lastly, portion size. This is not a dish to be eaten in moderation.
To pho or not to pho is never the question, where to pho is, and the answer is always all of the below when it comes to this list.
Hải Café
Mama Hải’s Clapton café has all the ingredients of a beloved family-run neighbourhood spot—it’s cosy with just a few seats in an unadorned but not unwelcoming space (and walk-in only!), placing all emphasis on Mama Hải’s home-cooked Vietnamese dishes. Of Mama Hải’s phở, the broth is meaty, expertly spiced, and makes you close your eyes in a moment of appreciative bliss upon the first sip. Both the beef and chicken phở are winners here, and the generous serving of herbs along with fresh chilli and lime is a little detail that goes a long way in my books. My initial order: chicken phở with summer rolls and green tea.
HeadBox suggestion: Opening times vary from what’s listed on the internet. Always give the broth a try before adding in sriracha (if that’s your preference) to appreciate the flavour of the broth (you should do this with any broth).
Clapton, E5 | www.hai-cafe.com
Sông Quê Café
Well-known and well-loved, if you know your phở in London, you know Sông Quê. But for the newcomers, get yourself to Hoxton and order a phở of your choice (I prefer rare sliced steak). The broth here is one of my favourites, simmered with the choicest cuts of beef and seven different types of herbs and spices, the star anise that lingers in the aftertaste is warming as it is aromatic. When I order a dish that isn’t phở, Sông Quê’s menu graciously offers a side of just phở broth for about £4 that always accompanies my order. The serving is generous and they don’t skimp on the side of fresh herbs.
HeadBox suggestion: The high-ceilinged café can accommodate a good number of covers but it gets busy. I like to take myself during the quiet hours of the afternoon where I enjoy my meal with a good book and a pot of jasmine tea.
Hoxton, E2 | www.songque.co.uk
Tây Đô Café
Another well-loved Hoxton establishment, Tây Đô Café had my heart the first time I ordered the special beef phở with its rare sliced steak, well-done flank and beef meatballs in a rich and aromatic broth. It’s a generous portion phở and pretty affordable as well. Naturally, the order was accompanied by summer rolls and a pot of tea, but I have since had the iced Vietnamese coffee which I highly recommend. The super crispy calamari is a damn good side order. It’s a great neighbourhood staple – busy and hits the spot every time.
HeadBox suggestion: If you don’t mind dining a little early, around 5 p.m. is good to avoid a crowd.
Hoxton, E2 | taydo.co.uk
Hanoi Café
It was a rainy weekday evening the first time I took myself to Hanoi Café, I had yet to try the phở there and a big bowl of soup noodles was the only thing that would complete my cosy rainy day outing with a good book. I ordered my usual first-time order: beef phở with summer rolls and a pot of green tea, and since I had a hankering for them on that day, an order of bò lá lot (mince beef wrapped and cooked in aromatic betel leaf). I sat at the window, reading, slurping my noodles, sipping my broth, and dipping my summer rolls and bò lá lot. A classic beef phở that’s a little lighter on the aromatics than say, Sông Quê’s broth, but it still hits.
Hoxton, E2 | www.hanoicafe.co.uk
Sen Viet
Another Vietnamese restaurant I ended up in on a rainy day, unlike many of the East End-based establishments on this list, Sen Viet is a popular and busy little spot between King’s Cross and Clerkenwell. This is the place I go to when I want Vietnamese but the journey to Hoxton is out of the way that day. Beef phở, summer rolls and a pot of jasmine tea. Sen Viet is decently priced, and consistent, with a broth that’s better than the phở chains you find dotted around central London. One of my favourite phở accompaniments is the prawn & chicken crispy pancakes—I’m drooling just thinking about it.
King’s Cross, WC1X | senviet.has.restaurant
Viet Soho
This small and cosy Vietnamese restaurant is the only place in central London I’ll go for phở. Located on Soho’s Greek Street, I’ve been here for the rare sirloin beef phở with an order of summer rolls and jasmine tea, I’m also just as likely to order chicken or tofu phở at Viet Soho. My only nitpick is the single sprig of herbs that comes with my phở—I love my herbs, so please be generous with your herbs. Viet Soho has good broth and decent portion sizes. Swap out a chain phở for this independent little spot.
Soho, W1D | www.vietsoho.co.uk
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