North London pubs with a standout kitchen

It is unfortunate that many pubs are disappointing. Patterned carpets that try to evoke boozers gone by, sticky tables, wobbly barstools and a general sense of uncleanliness; without naming names, a certain spot – or chain – may come to mind.

On the other end of the spectrum, perhaps equally controversial, are gastropubs, part of the hipster 2010s that stuck. Many lament these as going against all that pubs should be about, offering elevated takes on classic dishes that are never as good as the original and an extensive, undecipherable wine list.

That being said, every once in a while a pub comes along with a kitchen that makes you realise a fancier roast dinner and an unpronounceable wine don’t matter because the food is just that good.

It can be difficult to find somewhere that everyone can at least be unoffended by; hopefully, this list of North London pubs with standout kitchens help you when it comes to picking a place.

Compton Arms

You don’t have to travel to the sun-kissed Amalfi coast or the stylish bustle of Milan to get good Italian food – you can just hop on the Overground to Highbury and Islington, where Dara Klein’s Tiella is currently in residence at the Compton Arms. Fresh pasta is just the tip of the iceberg here, with chopped beef fillet, battered hake, and Panzanella all featured on the menu.

The snackier selection (the more refined among us know this as antipasti), including the kind of bread you can easily devour half a loaf of before you even realise it, pairs just as well with pales, stouts and lagers as it does a crisp white wine or a holiday-inspired Spritz.

The pub has a dedicated dining room and garden for those looking for a more restaurant-y vibe, while the main room is open to all. Be quick if you want to enjoy Tiella’s delights as the residency ends at the start of December. Whatever it’s replaced with will doubtless be just as delicious as it has a track record, with Four Legs and Belly having previously held court in the Compton Arms.

Canonbury, N1 | comptonarms.co.uk

The Pig & Butcher

As the name might suggest, the Pig and Butcher is a meat-heavy institution. They pride themselves on sourcing from specialist farms and cooking with a variety of rare (not endangered) breeds that give an edge to the fairly traditional dishes featured on their daily-changing menu.

Plating is classy but not overly so, knowing when to hold back and when to lean into the trends. It values a quenelle, which adorns dishes both sweet and savoury, but equally respects giant Yorkshire puddings.

The dining room is open and breezy, with mismatched chairs and long wooden tables providing a farmhouse kitchen feel – a nod to the once-rural setting of Islington. Large windows dispel that impression (no disrespect to the views of Liverpool Road), but it offers another brief escape from the metropolitan world.

Islington, N1 | thepigandbutcher.co.uk

The Parakeet

This is one of those noticeable wooden pubs, the type that, without the right atmosphere, can appear as though it’s trying too hard to be upmarket. The bar is backlit with stained glass hawking the shelves’ wares: Spirits! Wines! Stout!

Despite the nod to traditional features, the Parakeet’s of-the-moment green interior and patterned cushions mean it doesn’t sink into nostalgia. The further you walk in, the more this is made clear. The drinks here are classy, served in hefty glasses that make each sip feel more meaningful than it would from a standard tumbler, and the menu is, for want of a better phrase, really fancy. While Padron peppers and the like may be increasingly popular across the board, it’s not every day that you see rabbit empanadas on the bar snacks menu.

Kentish Town, NW5 | theparakeetpub.com

The Lighterman

A far cry from some of the traditional Victorian (or Victorian-inspired) pubs on this list, the Lighterman looks a bit like Grand Designs started a spinoff series about restaurants. The boxy slate-grey exterior features floor-to-ceiling windows, exposed concrete walls and multiple levels of seating. Looking out over Granary Square on one side and Regent’s Canal on the other, its terrace tables are always busy. The revitalisation of the King’s Cross area has been a years-long project, but with places like the Lighterman, it’s clear to see that it’s been a success.

Expect elevated classics at the Lighterman with the likes of sharing Sunday roasts, St Ives monkfish scampi, a 32-day dry-aged beef cheeseburger with all the trimmings, and Cornish hake and chips.

King's Cross, N1C | thelighterman.co.uk

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